ITALY OF MUSHROOMS
Early in the morning, they don rubber boots and comfortable clothes, and stalk the woods looking for their prey. Don't be fooled by their peaceful appearance! Even if their weapons are only a pocket knife and a basket, mushroom hunters are as relentless as the hunters of game. And their number is growing! So much so that in some of the most productive areas, mushroom picking has been regulated to avoid depletion and to discourage the amateurs who flock to the woods in autumn to take a long hike rather than look for " porcini ", chanterelles, or the rarer amanitas.
Nothing can stop the true mushroom hunters, those who get up before dawn to avoid being tracked by other " predators " to their secret hunting grounds where humidity, humus and tree roots (in one word, the microclimate) favour the growth of mushrooms and where they return each season, knowing they will not be disappointed.
Not everyone shares in the passion of mushroom hunting. Very few, however, can resist their tempting flavor which is the quintessence of the woods and the earth. It is hard to generalize about the best way to prepare a dish of mushroom since it greatly depends on the kind of mushrooms involved. For choice specimens, such as Amanita cesarea and Boletus edulis, the ideal preparation is very little preparation : cut up in thin slices and served raw, in a salad, flavoured by a little olive oil and a few slivers of Parmigiano reggiano and celery.
Raw mushrooms, however, may be hard on the digestive system of some. Then it is best to cook them, taking every care to preserve the original flavour. Sauteed or grilled, the largest specimens will keep their distinct flavour intact. Mushroom soup is always an excellent option, provided spices and condiments are used sparingly. Other mushrooms of lesser order can be dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and then fried. Most can successfully be sauteed with garlic and parsley. The simplest recipes are sometimes the best : just cook them in butter for a simple but delicious spaghetti sauce, or prepare the traditional " risotto ai funghi ".
